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Prehistoric Textile Art |
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Extract From The Thirteenth
Annual Report Of The Bureau Of Ethnology,
1891-92 |
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William H. Holmes (1884) |
Gustav's
Library Vintage Reprint

Charring,
contact with copper, impressions on pottery, arid environments,
these are the ways that fabric was preserved over the ages just
waiting for William H. Holmes to study and describe it. One of
our favorite authors takes a look at wattle work, fabrics, feather
work, basketry, matting , nets, etc.
This is one
of the series of publications written to accompany the
report
on the mound explorations of the bureau of ethnology
by Cyrus Thomas.
"About
the year 1890 the writer was requested by the Director of the Bureau
of Ethnology to prepare certain papers on aboriginal art, to
accompany the final report of Dr. Cyrus Thomas on his explorations
of mounds and other ancient remains in eastern United States. These
papers were to treat of those arts represented most fully by relics
recovered in the field explored. They included studies of the art of
pottery, of the textile art and of art in shell, and a paper on
native tobacco pipes. Three of these papers were already completed
when it was decided to issue the main work of Dr. Thomas
independently of the several papers prepared by his associates. It
thus happens that the present paper, written to form a limited
section of a work restricted to narrow geographic limits, covers so
small a fragment of the aboriginal textile field."
Holmes'
Definition of the Art: "The textile art dates back to the
very inception of culture, and its practice is next to universal
among living peoples. In very early stages of culture progress it
embraced the stems of numerous branches of industry afterward
differentiated through the utilization of other materials or through
the employment of distinct systems of construction. At all periods
of cultural development it has been a most indispensable art, and
with some peoples it has reached a marvelous perfection, both
technically and esthetically.
Woven fabrics include all those products of art in
which the elements or parts employed in construction are more or
less fllamental, and are combined by methods conditioned chiefly by
their flexibility. The processes employed are known by such terms as
wattling, interlacing, plaiting, netting, weaving, sewing, and
embroidering."
This 8-1/4"
x 10-1/2", 64 page, soft cover, facsimile reprint contains
9 full page plates and 28 illustrations. $7.95
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CONTENTS |
Introductory
Scope of the work
Definition of the art
Materials and processes
Sources of information
Products of the art
Wattle work
Basketry
Types of basketry
Baskets
Sieves and strainers
Cradles
Shields
Matting
Pliable fabrics
Development of spinning and weaving
Cloths
Nets
Feather-work
Embroidery
Fossil fabrics
Modes of preservation
Fabrics from caves and shelters
Charred remains of fabrics from
mounds
Fabrics preserved by contact with
copper
Fabrics impressed on pottery |

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Illustrations |
Plate I. Products of the textile art: a, Openwork fish
baskets of Virginia Indians; b, Manner of weaving: c, Basket
strainer; d, Quiver of rushes; e, Mat of rushes
II. Mat of split cane
III. Mantle or skirt of light-colored stuff
IV. Fringed skirt
V. Frayed hag and skeins of hemp fiber
VI. Charred cloth from mounds in Ohio
VII. Drawings of charred fabric from mounds
VIII. Copper celts with remnants of cloth
IX. Bits of fabric-marked pottery, with clay
casts of same
Fig. 1. Fish weir of the Virginia Indians
2. Use of mats in an Indian council
3. Use of mat in sleeping
4. Section of cliff showing position of grave
shelter
5. Portion of mantle showing manner of weaving
6. Analysis of the weaving of fringed skirt
7. Former costumes of woman and girl in Louisiana
8. Border of bag
9. Sandal or moccasin from a Kentucky cave
10. Fine, closely woven cloth preserved by contact with
copper beads
11. Small portion of rush matting preserved by contact
with copper
12. Split-cane matting from Petite Anse island,
Louisiana
13. Fabric-marked vase from a mound in North Carolina
14. Diagonal fabric, ancient pottery of Tennessee
15. Fabric from the ancient pottery of Alabama
16. Twined fabric from ancient pottery, Tennessee
17. Twined fabric from ancient pottery, Tennessee
18. Twined fabric from ancient salt vessel, Illinois
19. Twined fabric from ancient salt vessel, Illinois
20. Twined fabric from a piece of clay, Arkansas
21. Twined fabric from ancient pottery, Tennessee
22. Twined fabric from ancient pottery, Missouri
23. Twined fabric from ancient pottery, Carter county,
Tennessee
24. Twined fabric from ancient pottery, Tennessee
25. Twined fabric from ancient pottery, Tennessee
26. Twined fabric, with patterns, Ohio valley
27. Net from ancient pottery, District of Columbia
28. Net from ancient pottery, North Carolina |
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Sample
Illustrations - click on image to enlarge
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